Our next stop in Bali took us to the small bay of Lovina. Our hotel was nice, but directly next to a construction site, so unfortunately, not very quiet. Our first night there, we stumbled upon a cute outdoor restaurant, Warung Ayu, serving standard Indonesian fare. The nasi goreng (fried rice) and mie goreng (fried noodles) were delicious and extremely cheap. The entire meal with a satay appetizer in a spicy peanut sauce and a large bottle of beer only set us back 70,000 rupiahs / $8.25 USD! And it was delicious!

Cheap, delicious Indonesian mie goreng ayam (fried noodles with chicken). View at Picasa Cheap, delicious Indonesian mie goreng ayam (fried noodles with chicken).09-Sep-2011 14:39

The only real thing we wanted to do in Lovina was see the famous Lovina dolphins. The friendly owner and cook at Warung Ayu told us she sold tickets to the dolphin cruises. We booked the 6am tour for early the next morning, hearing that it was better and not as hot as the later tours in the day.

The dolphin statue in Lovina's town center. View at Picasa The dolphin statue in Lovina's town center.09-Sep-2011 15:05

When we arrived at the beach before sunrise, the shore was packed with boats for the early cruises. Usually a dolphin cruise means getting on a large boat with a mass of other tourists. This boat only fits 4 -6 people. The other couple on our boat was actually staying at our hotel, too!

The small traditional outriggers used for dolphin spotting. View at Picasa The small traditional outriggers used for dolphin spotting.09-Sep-2011 15:00

It took a while to get everything organized and we insisted on having lifejackets, even though we saw other boats going out to sea without them. The ride out to the dolphins was long and a bit scary. We were actually on a wooden canoe type boat and our narrow seats were on a wooden board stretched along the two sides of the boat. Very glad that we had insisted on lifejackets…

Heading out into the bay to look for dolphins. View at Picasa Heading out into the bay to look for dolphins.10-Sep-2011 05:31

Booming tourism has proved fruitful for all of the local seamen profiting off of the dolphin tours. There had to be over 100 boats out there shuttling tourists around, chasing down the dolphins. I felt bad once we started seeing the dolphins, since as soon as one boat started seeing them, it would become the leader of a huge chase of 20 or more boats harassing the dolphins. We just felt bad for the poor dolphins who are now harassed daily while they just try to feed in the bay.

A swarm of boats surrounding the dolphins. View at Picasa A swarm of boats surrounding the dolphins.10-Sep-2011 05:23

The town of Amed turned out to be one of our favorite spots in Bali. After an insanely terrifying speedboat ride from Gili T, we were kissing the hot rocks on the beach under our feet after we safely reached land. We chose to stay in a small bay of Lipah at a cute place called Coral View tucked at the quiet end of the bay right on the water. The rock beach was so nice and relaxing – we loved taking naps and having a nice cold beer while lounging on the hotel’s chairs.

Our comfy room at Coral View Villas in Lipah. View at Picasa Our comfy room at Coral View Villas in Lipah.06-Sep-2011 12:25

After hearing that this bay was a great spot for snorkeling, we decided to check out the underwater world. After a quick 2 minute swim out to the reef, we were pleasantly surprised to see some beautiful fish and colorful and interesting coral. After exploring our side of the bay, we headed to the far side and had lunch at a dive center cafe that had free WiFi. We checked out the reef right out in front of the cafe. Spectacular! We felt like we had found a secret snorkeling hotspot. The reef was gorgeous – very colorful and alive and the fish life just blew us away! We wound up snorkeling here a couple of times – it was that good!

Beautiful coral and fish right off the beach in Amed. View at Picasa Beautiful coral and fish right off the beach in Amed.

The most popular dive site in Bali is in Amed and Erik wasn’t going to miss it. The Tulamben wreck – an old US army transport ship used in WWII was torpedoed by the Japanese. It now sits just 120 meters offshore, so it makes for a wonderful and easily accessible dive site. Since it’s so close to shore, it’s also a hotspot for snorkellers, as it’s a rare treat to see a wreck.

Erik diving the Tulamben wreck. View at Picasa Erik diving the Tulamben wreck.

On the ride to the wreck site, we came upon a funeral parade. Since Bali is a Hindu island, they believe the bodies must be cremated and the ashes must be released to the sea. The huge procession stopped all traffic but we were happy since it was actually a Bali tradition we had been hoping to witness. What is often seen as a time of death and mourning was quite lively and a real celebration. A very different but positive way to react to death, as you can see in our video:

The Tulamben wreck was amazing. The top part of the ship was just 3 meters/10 feet below the surface when we were there. It was incredible for me to see this wreck since it was my first. It was also neat to see Erik down just below me while he was doing his dive. A huge school of jacks swirled all around us – a fantastic sight!

A giant school of jacks at the Tulamben wreck site. View at Picasa A giant school of jacks at the Tulamben wreck site.

As we left Amed, we were left loving it for its underwater life and the general relaxing vibe we felt while staying there. A secret paradise in Bali, at least for now…

After being let down by the high-season crowds and sky-high prices in neighboring Gili Trawangan, we boarded the public ferry for the quick trip over to smaller, more-relaxed, Gili Air.

It was still fairly early in the morning, and we were hoping to beat out the other accommodation-seeking travelers arriving on the first speedboat from Bali that day. Still, it was hot, and we were covered in sweat after just a few seconds of hauling our bags around, searching for a place to hang our hats for a couple of nights.

The rickety and overloaded public "ferry" to Gili Air. View at Picasa The rickety and overloaded public "ferry" to Gili Air.04-Sep-2011 08:48

We eventually settled on a small, simple bungalow in a fairly-central location. At 250,000 Rupiah (US $27) per night, it was still expensive by Indonesian standards, especially considering the fact that it was fairly run down and had a salt-water shower! Still, it did the trick for the short time we were on the island.

Our bungalow, just a few steps away from the beach. View at Picasa Our bungalow, just a few steps away from the beach.06-Sep-2011 07:49

There really wasn’t much to do on Gili Air besides relaxing, and we got straight to it! The pace here was much more easy-going than neighboring Gili T, with far fewer crowds, noise, and annoyances, making it easy to enjoy everything the island had to offer.

We woke up early one day to see this magnificent sunrise over Gunung Rinjani on nearby Lombok - the second highest volcano in Indonesia. View at Picasa We woke up early one day to see this magnificent sunrise over Gunung Rinjani on nearby Lombok - the second highest volcano in Indonesia.06-Sep-2011 05:22

By day, we were hitting the beach – sometimes even finding deserted sections where we were the only ones around.

Beautiful, unspoilt beaches and excellent snorkeling make Gili Air our favorite of the Gili Islands. View at Picasa Beautiful, unspoilt beaches and excellent snorkeling make Gili Air our favorite of the Gili Islands.06-Sep-2011 07:57

Some excellent snorkeling can be found all around the island, and we particularly enjoyed snorkeling with more turtles. The island’s predominant currents run in a clockwise direction, so we often jumped in, caught the current “conveyor belt” partway around the island, then jumped out and walked around to do it all over again!

Snorkeling with turtles right off the beach on Gili Air. View at Picasa Snorkeling with turtles right off the beach on Gili Air.

As sunset approach, we would head to the North or West sections of Gili Air, where a number of bars are set up on the beach to best enjoy the view with a cocktail in hand.

Bars on the northern part of the island set up special seating for each evening's sunset. View at Picasa Bars on the northern part of the island set up special seating for each evening's sunset.05-Sep-2011 17:30

In the evening, there were a ton of chilled-out beachfront bars and restaurants. As opposed to the loud, packed clubs on Gili T, nightlife here was more like a quiet drink in a private bamboo hut listening to the waves lap the sand.

Chill Out Cafe - one of our favorites on Gili Air - sits next to the most attractive beach on the island. View at Picasa Chill Out Cafe - one of our favorites on Gili Air - sits next to the most attractive beach on the island.06-Sep-2011 09:03

Yes, life on Gili Air was good, and we were happy we found this real island paradise after such a disappointment on neighboring Gili Trawangan. While we were only there two nights, we could have easily made it many more…

The small, idyllic Gili Islands, were one of the things we were most looking forward to in Indonesia. In fact, I’d go so far as to say these were one of the top things we were looking forward to in all of Southeast Asia! Before we had even set off on our trip, we had heard gushing reports of these tropical paradise islands, just off the coast of Lombok, Indonesia, which have become a fixture on the backpacker “Banana Pancake” trail through the region.

As they are tiny, sand islands (just a few miles in diameter at max), there are no cars or motorcycles in the Gilis – a nice break from the hectic moto-filled streets found everywhere else in Indonesia. The islands do not have any significant fresh water resources, so until tourism recently developed here, they were uninhabited. Now, a population of Sasak people from nearby Lombok live on the islands and cater to tourists.

With no motorized vehicles on the Gili Islands, bikes and horse-drawn carriages are both popular methods of transport. View at Picasa With no motorized vehicles on the Gili Islands, bikes and horse-drawn carriages are both popular methods of transport.29-Aug-2011 14:06

The Lombok strait, separating Bali, Lombok, and the Gili Islands, is renowned for its rough, tumultuous waters, plied by ill-equipped Indonesian boats and crews with insufficient training. We immediately ruled out the public ferry option, which would have involved an uncomfortable 12-hour journey on a rusting, old ferry, followed by bus, and another local ferry. Luckily, “fast boat” companies have been setup for tourists, which make the crossing using speedboats in less than two hours and drop you off right at your requested island. That’s more like it.

Fresh off the fast boat in Gili T. View at Picasa Fresh off the fast boat in Gili T.29-Aug-2011 10:28

We decided to start with Gili Trawangan, the largest and most-developed of the Gilis. A steady stream of backpackers, plethora of bars, absence of police, and abundance of drugs have earned Trawangan its reputation as a party island.

Even though it's trying to clean up its image, signs for magic mushrooms can still be found all over the island. View at Picasa Even though it's trying to clean up its image, signs for magic mushrooms can still be found all over the island.02-Sep-2011 20:34

It’s recently begun to clean up its image, though, and these days fancy restaurants and resorts are popping up at a steady pace.

Our first thought on Gili “T” (as it’s known) was, “yikes! it’s busy here!” We knew it was high season, but we weren’t fully prepared for the throngs of people roaming the island. Since we didn’t have reservations for a place to stay, we started working through some of the suggestions in Lonely Planet and Wikitravel. Nearly everything was booked or astronomically expensive.

The main "street" in Gili T. Not exactly the quiet, tranquil island we were imagining. View at Picasa The main "street" in Gili T. Not exactly the quiet, tranquil island we were imagining.01-Sep-2011 13:04

Finally, we found space at a scruffy-looking guesthouse tucked away towards the back end of the main town. At 150,000 Rupiah (US $16.50), it was still a bit expensive for what it was, but hey, we were desperate. After an uncomfortable night’s sleep on suspicious blood-stained sheets along with mice running around the room, we packed up quickly the next morning and looked for another place to stay. Hoping to beat the early Bali fast boats, we found a much nicer, clean, and mouse-free place to stay on the North-Eastern side of the island. At 500,000 Rupia (US $55) it was expensive. As we were quickly finding out, the Gilis are no longer the cheap, backpacker haven we had heard so much about.

A simple fan room for $55? Gili T was an unexpected budget-buster. View at Picasa A simple fan room for $55? Gili T was an unexpected budget-buster.30-Aug-2011 09:14

Sure enough, the glitzy resorts, fancy bars, and expensive restaurants are taking over Gili Trawangan. We couldn’t believe how much we were paying for things that everywhere else in Southeast Asia were a third or half as much. The word is out on Gili T, and with the mad rush of sun-seeking holidaymakers now making the quick trip here from Bali, backpackers are getting squeezed out of the island paradise they discovered and popularized.

Once exclusively a backpacker's destination, Gili T has recently gone upmarket. View at Picasa Once exclusively a backpacker's destination, Gili T has recently gone upmarket.29-Aug-2011 12:15

But, all is not lost on Gili T, and there is no doubt this island is popular for good reason. For a start, the island is surrounded by beautiful beaches.

White sand and turquoise waters surround Gili Trawangan. View at Picasa White sand and turquoise waters surround Gili Trawangan.29-Aug-2011 12:55

Then, there are the turtles. The islands are home to a sizable population of green and hawksbill sea turtles. We were thrilled to see half a dozen of these magnificent creatures while snorkeling off the beach one day.

We found this cute hawksbill only a few meters offshore. View at Picasa We found this cute hawksbill only a few meters offshore.

Encouraged by our close-encounters with the resident turtles, we took one of the popular glass-bottom snorkeling tours around the three Gilis. The tour was terrible – with approximately 60 people loaded onto a boat probably designed to hold 20 – and an experience we would rather forget.

The overloaded snorkel trip boat. View at Picasa The overloaded snorkel trip boat.02-Sep-2011 10:45

One good thing came out of this, though. The captain dropped us on Gili Air for lunch (directing us to a place he would get a kickback), but instead of getting corralled into the designated eatery, we decided to take a walk and explore this smaller island. With much fewer people crawling around, beautiful beaches, and a collection of cool-looking restaurants about, we decided this might be the Gili for us.

So, a couple days later we packed our bags and set off on the first public boat across to Gili Air.

An up and coming tourist hotspot, Bali was put on the map with Elizabeth Gilbert’s 2006 book “Eat, Pray, Love,” and even moreso with the 2010 film starring Julia Roberts. Tourism in Bali has skyrocketed since their release, and the development of upscale spas, resorts, and shopping centers is accelerating at a rapid pace.

Our first stop in Bali was the famous, or infamous, beach town of Kuta. Its long stretches of sandy beach, low prices and proximity to Australia have made it very attractive to the Aussie holidaymaker looking for a lively, cheap getaway.

A traditional procession through the touristy streets and alleyways of Kuta. View at Picasa A traditional procession through the touristy streets and alleyways of Kuta.18-Aug-2011 11:01

Traveling in Indonesia is a bit challenging, as many local people just looking to earn some money will do just about anything to get you to spend money, figuring that you don’t know what it should cost. We mistrusted some information given to us about getting from Java to Bali and instead of purchasing a package tourist ticket for a ferry and bus, we decided to take the ferry and find our own way to Kuta by bus somehow. When we stepped off the ferry, we walked to the local bus terminal and had a hard time negotiating a decent price for a bus to Kuta. Little did we know we had paid $5 each for a 4 hour ride on an old local bus. No air conditioning and very tight seats. Erik could barely fit in a seat so we wound up sitting apart. We had to pile all of our bags and backpacks in one tiny seat with the rest laying on our laps. Nice and hot and sweaty. Lesson learned. Sometimes the extra few bucks for the tourist transport is money well spent.

Look out! Motorbikes dodge pedestrians on Kuta's small and congested back alleys. View at Picasa Look out! Motorbikes dodge pedestrians on Kuta's small and congested back alleys.15-Sep-2011 20:19

Our hotel, the Secret Garden Inn, with our own bathroom, free WiFi, a huge swimming pool, TV and air conditioning, was right in the heart of town, within walking distance to restaurants, shops and the beach, and made for a very comfortable stay.

Heather taking a dip at our hotel. View at Picasa Heather taking a dip at our hotel.21-Aug-2011 09:54

Sampling our favorite Indonesian fare was so simple as many eateries cooked up some mean mie goreng ayam (stir fried noodles with chicken) and chicken satay with peanut sauce, all for just a couple of bucks.

Erik enjoyed this restaurant that let you grill your own satay! View at Picasa Erik enjoyed this restaurant that let you grill your own satay!17-Sep-2011 16:19

By day, we were relaxing on the sandy beaches or lounging by the pool. Our nights were spent sipping a cool beverage on the beach soaking up gorgeous sunsets. Bali life was nice. Although, our guards were up a bit as we were reminded of the tragic Bali bombings that happened in October 2002. Tourist bars were targeted and over 200 people were killed in carefully planned bombings and the resulting fires. A beautiful memorial sits in the main nightlife zone as a constant reminder of the many innocent people whose lives were cut short just by being in the wrong place at the wrong time.

The Bali Bombing Memorial, occupying the same busy street corner as one of the nightclubs bombed in 2002. View at Picasa The Bali Bombing Memorial, occupying the same busy street corner as one of the nightclubs bombed in 2002.16-Aug-2011 22:12

From there, we moved on to Ubud, the part of Bali where “Eat, Pray, Love” was filmed. This touristy town is full of traditional Bali culture, with dance shows, concerts and kecak fire shows presented in multiple spots every night of the week.

A traditional dancer bringing the Hindu epic Ramayana to life. View at Picasa A traditional dancer bringing the Hindu epic Ramayana to life.24-Aug-2011 18:39

We loved the kecak fire show, where a old legendary story is reenacted and a huge group of more than 40 men chant building up to the finale as the horseman dances on fire with bare feet.

A chorus of men repeatedly chanting "kay-chak, kay-chak, kay-chak" provide the instrumentation for the Kecak show. View at Picasa A chorus of men repeatedly chanting "kay-chak, kay-chak, kay-chak" provide the instrumentation for the Kecak show.21-Aug-2011 18:46

Many of the homes are very intricate and beautiful with a central square, gardens, a temple and authentic Balinese fabrics and sculptures. Each day, the Hindu people make offerings of rice and light incense and leave the offerings in special places in their home or at the entry of their business. We even found little offerings placed outside of our door each morning.

An intricately carved door in our Ubud Homestay. View at Picasa An intricately carved door in our Ubud Homestay.22-Aug-2011 10:01

The iconic images of Bali’s lush rice fields greeted us on nearly every corner. We were lucky enough to stay right alongside a rice field and had a gorgeous view to accompany us as we ate our complementary banana pancake breakfast on the balcony each morning.

The view from our room to some of Ubud's picturesque rice paddies. View at Picasa The view from our room to some of Ubud's picturesque rice paddies.24-Aug-2011 07:18

We visited a few more temples and sights inland before finally making our way to the port of Padang Bai, ready to hop to our next island in the Indonesian archipelago.

Before we even had the chance to dust off from our early-morning encounter with Java’s Bromo Volcano, we were ready for the next volcanic sight – Ijen Crater and the remarkable miners that painstakingly extract its sulfur deposits using only primitive tools and pure muscle.

We set off in the car with our driver, Mr. Havid, through rice paddies, tobacco fields, and sugar cane plantations, all thriving under the hot Indonesian sun.

Tobacco drying on the side of the road in Central Java. View at Picasa Tobacco drying on the side of the road in Central Java.15-Aug-2011 12:48

Seeing some workers with machetes hacking away at stalks of sugar cane off the side of the road, Mr. Havid pulled over and struck up a conversation. They cut down a few bits for us to sample, getting a kick out of my attempt at chomping down on the raw cane.

A sugar cane worker cutting up a stalk for us to sample. View at Picasa A sugar cane worker cutting up a stalk for us to sample.15-Aug-2011 14:58

We were warned the final stretch of road to reach our accommodation that night would be “rough.” That was putting it mildly. This had to be one of the worst roads either one of us had ever seen. Over the next hour we got bounced around like rag dolls, listening to large boulders striking the undercarriage, and praying we wouldn’t get a flat. A few times Mr. Havid had us get out and walk while he maneuvered through the trickier parts.

Loose rocks and steep inclines on the road to Ijen make for slow-going. View at Picasa Loose rocks and steep inclines on the road to Ijen make for slow-going.16-Aug-2011 10:07

All this to travel a grand total of 10km.

We were happy to finally arrive in the small Catimor Homestay, located on a coffee plantation run by the Blawan Coffee Company. The accommodation was fairly basic and the proprietors – knowing they are running, literally, the only game in town – were charging exorbitant prices for their substandard food. We refused the one item on their “menu” (an expensive and sad-looking buffet dinner), and opted instead to munch on some snacks we had brought. Luckily, there were some nearby geothermal hot springs for us to make use of.

Coffee cherries from the Blawan Coffee Plantation. The smaller tan-colored item at top is one of two beans found in each cherry. View at Picasa Coffee cherries from the Blawan Coffee Plantation. The smaller tan-colored item at top is one of two beans found in each cherry.16-Aug-2011 10:45

The next morning, we were once again up before dawn, in the car and on our way to the trailhead for the hike to the Ijen Crater. Like the previous tour we had taken of a silver mine in Bolivia, we were first brought to a miner’s market to buy small gifts to hand out to the hardworking men we would be meeting along the way. Mr. Havid advised us to buy a couple packs of cigarettes to dole out. While I would normally be the last one to encourage an unhealthy habit like smoking, by the end of the day it would be obvious that cigarettes were the least of these mens’ worries.

Miners at the base, waiting to cash in their baskets of yellow sulfur. View at Picasa Miners at the base, waiting to cash in their baskets of yellow sulfur.16-Aug-2011 09:49

We started the 3km ascent to the crater following the same path the sulfur miners use. Every day, these workers wake early, ascend to the crater’s rim and down into the caldera, where they collect as many chunks of solidified sulfur as they can humanly carry on the return trip back over the crater’s edge and down to a collection point at the base. Most of them make two or three trips a day and carry 70-100kg of sulfur each trip. It’s backbreaking work. Some of the men have highly deformed shoulders from carrying such heavy loads. Many do the trip barefoot or wearing only cheap flip-flops.

Miners carry 70-100 kg of sulfur per trip, three times a day. View at Picasa Miners carry 70-100 kg of sulfur per trip, three times a day.16-Aug-2011 06:56

As we hiked up the path, we cheered on the passing miners, handing out the cigarettes we had picked up. While we were huffing and puffing up the steep incline, the guys making the return trip with empty baskets were lapping us with ease.

Heavily weighed-down miners were still passing us with ease. View at Picasa Heavily weighed-down miners were still passing us with ease.16-Aug-2011 08:37

We neared the top, breaking through a low cloud layer, and getting a look down over the rim into the smelly, smoky crater. It was like staring through a window into hell.

The view down into Ijen crater from the rim. Sulfur mining operations take place at the bottom, near the gas clouds. View at Picasa The view down into Ijen crater from the rim. Sulfur mining operations take place at the bottom, near the gas clouds.16-Aug-2011 07:15

After pausing for a few photo ops, we started making our way down the sharp switchbacks towards the mining operations at the bottom of the crater. Also inside the crater sits a large, turquoise lake. Beautiful as it may be, this lake would not be one you’d want to take a dip in – it’s actually the world’s largest lake of sulfuric acid, with a pH of around 0.2.

Ijen's large, turquoise, highly-acidic crater lake. View at Picasa Ijen's large, turquoise, highly-acidic crater lake.16-Aug-2011 07:28

As we reached the center of the mining operations, we covered our mouths and noses with bandanas. As winds shifted, every once in a while we were hit by thick, yellow clouds of sulfur dioxide gas. It burned our lungs and stung our eyes. We tried to hold our breathe as the clouds passed by but sometimes it was impossible. Even the workers were coughing and cursing along with us.

A fully-loaded basket resting on the crater's rim. View at Picasa A fully-loaded basket resting on the crater's rim.16-Aug-2011 07:25

Liquid sulfur is extracted from fumaroles inside the crater using long ceramic pipes. After the sulfur dries, workers break it down into chunks small enough to fit into their baskets, then begin the trip back to the processing station at the base. The miners are paid based on weight, making on average $10-15 per day, which is actually a relatively high wage in Indonesia.

Workers cover their mouths with wet rags to combat the noxious gases. View at Picasa Workers cover their mouths with wet rags to combat the noxious gases.16-Aug-2011 07:59

The complete lack of mechanization or safety equipment shocked us. This work is all done completely manually with brute force. Each day these miners make the same trip, back and forth, bit-by-bit, step-by-step.

Collecting the hardened sulfur deposits from ceramic pipes. View at Picasa Collecting the hardened sulfur deposits from ceramic pipes.16-Aug-2011 07:59

Another yellow cloud blew our way – this one the worst yet. Coughing men dropped their tools and started running away. We decided it was time to leave.

A worker tries to escape a cloud of sulfur dioxide. View at Picasa A worker tries to escape a cloud of sulfur dioxide.16-Aug-2011 08:04

Back at the top of the crater rim, we spotted a small sign stating that tourists weren’t allowed into the crater. Oops.

The warning sign we somehow missed. View at Picasa The warning sign we somehow missed.16-Aug-2011 08:39

We passed out our remaining cigarettes, pepping up miners we passed back on the way down.

It took weeks before we could wash the smell of sulfur out of the clothes we took to Ijen Crater. The memories, though, will last a lifetime.

For another look into the sulfur miners of Kawah Ijen, Indonesia, see the BBC’s Human Planet (episode 5) and article on BBC news.

Our love affair with volcanoes took us to the very alive and active Bromo Volcano in Eastern Java. We arrived just before sunset and our guide took us to a panoramic lookout for beautiful views of the area, peppered with volcanoes. We could peer down into the old volcanic caldera, now a sandy flat pit, and home to the three famous newer volcanoes. From there, we could see volcanoes Batok, Semeru (Java’s highest mountain at 3,676 m) and Bromo, which we would be climbing very early the next morning.

Recent eruptions have left a carpet of volcanic ash around the village of Cemoro Lawang. View at Picasa Recent eruptions have left a carpet of volcanic ash around the village of Cemoro Lawang.14-Aug-2011 17:08

4:00AM – The jarring alarm wakes us from our slumber. We force ourselves to get dressed and eat breakfast, despite the darkness. Our 4WD tour departs at 4:30am and we’re on our way thought the hazy fog towards the Bromo volcano. Out of sheer luck, we happened to be visiting on the biggest day of the year for the local Tenggerese people, when they come to the volcano to make their yearly sacrifices as part of the festival of Yadnya Kasada. On this day, these Hindu people of Probolinggo (a minority in Muslim-dominated Java), travel up the mountain to make offerings in the form of foods and flowers and even sacrifices of farm animals to the mountain gods by throwing them into the caldera of the volcano. This ritual started way back in the 15th century based on an ancient legend of a princess named Roro Anteng. Her and her husband were unable to have children and prayed to the mountain gods for help. The gods blessed them with 24 children, but demanded that the 25th child was to be thrown into the volcano as a human sacrifice. The couple complied and so began this sacrificial tradition which still occurs each year at Bromo.

Covered in a layer of fine ash, the Pura Luhur Poten Hindu temple sits at the base of Bromo. View at Picasa Covered in a layer of fine ash, the Pura Luhur Poten Hindu temple sits at the base of Bromo.15-Aug-2011 07:38

Our 4WD first took us to a climb of Mount Pananjakan for the sunrise view over the volcanic landscape. It was a bit of a tough climb in the dark, but with our headlamps leading the way, we made it to the lookout for a stunning view of the sunrise licking the tips of the volcano as an eerie fog hugged the sand landscape below. Photos don’t really do it justice, but the view was chilling and spectacular.

An early morning view over the three volcanoes sitting in the Tengger caldera. View at Picasa An early morning view over the three volcanoes sitting in the Tengger caldera.15-Aug-2011 05:56

Next, we were dropped off down in the sandpit below in a dense fog. I’m not sure exactly how our driver could see where he was going, but somehow we made it to the drop off point. We were told we could walk the 15 minutes to the volcano’s base or take a horse ride for an insanely high price. We had read about this ahead of time and knew it wasn’t that far, so we opted to walk.

A dense fog surrounded us as we started our climb up Bromo. View at Picasa A dense fog surrounded us as we started our climb up Bromo.15-Aug-2011 06:39

A decision we would soon regret. The morning fog was extremely thick. And the added bonus of thousands of people flocking to the volcano for the sacrificial festival just compounded the situation. But it also helped us. We followed the locals, since we knew they were all headed where we wanted to go.

Breaking through the fog, a steady stream of pilgrims makes their way to the top of the volcano. View at Picasa Breaking through the fog, a steady stream of pilgrims makes their way to the top of the volcano.15-Aug-2011 06:54

After what seemed like much longer than a 20 minute walk to Bromo’s base, we had made it! Now, the only thing standing between us and Bromo’s crater rim were the 245 steps that have been built to make the climb easier for locals and tourists alike. We joined the masses and slowly made our way up. Others passed us with their offerings, some only wearing flip flops.

Once atop the volcano, a very special and uniquely bizarre scene awaited us. Shoulder to shoulder, people sat, stood and kneeled along the craters edge praying and tossing in their offerings. Trying our best not to disturb anyone, we squeezed our way along the narrow crater, trying to keep our footing, even as loose volcanic sand slipped from under our feet.

Everything from money, to vegetables, to live animals gets thrown into the volcano. View at Picasa Everything from money, to vegetables, to live animals gets thrown into the volcano.15-Aug-2011 07:13

Erik captured some fantastic moments in his photos taken with his new SLR camera. As people prayed and lit incense, they tossed their various offerings into the steaming volcano.

Perched atop the rim and looking into the crater, a Tenggerese woman makes offerings to the volcano. View at Picasa Perched atop the rim and looking into the crater, a Tenggerese woman makes offerings to the volcano.15-Aug-2011 07:10

This volcano, like many in Indonesia, is still very much an active one. As we stood on the narrow crater rim with the local Hindus making offerings, there were others that braved the climb down into the volcano to catch the offerings of food and other useful items.

Dangerous as it was, I suppose some feel a prime opportunity for free food is worth the extreme risk of tumbling into the steaming volcano below.

Locals climb into the volcano to collect offerings. View at Picasa Locals climb into the volcano to collect offerings.15-Aug-2011 07:08

We had experienced a very tender and special ceremony on the volcano that day. Every volcano climb is a special experience to us, but we will not soon forget that beautiful sunny morning, standing along the crater of Bromo, witnessing this precious ancient Hindu tradition.

Yogjakarta is the most popular tourist destination on the densely-populated island of Java. And for good reason. This small city is home to sites exemplifying Indonesia’s multicultural history, including Hindu and Buddhist temples, sultans’ palaces and playgrounds, and old colonial forts.

We left the congestion, noise, and pollution of Jakarta behind, departing on an early morning train to be able to enjoy the scenery during the 8-hour trip past rice paddies, small villages, and smoking volcanoes.

Staring out the train window at the endless sea of rice paddies. View at Picasa Staring out the train window at the endless sea of rice paddies.08-Aug-2011 11:03

After finding our way out of the train station, we hunted for a room in one of the budget guesthouses lining the narrow alleyways off Malioboro Street.

One of the backpacker ghetto alleys off Malioboro Street. View at Picasa One of the backpacker ghetto alleys off Malioboro Street.09-Aug-2011 17:50

It was a little challenging – most places were full and it was already late in the day, but eventually we settled on the slightly more upscale Malioboro Palace Hotel, for around $31/night.

We stayed in Jogja the better part of a week, exploring the nearby historical sites, crowded city streets, colorful markets, and atmospheric restaurants.

Bicycle taxis called "becaks", like these outside our hotel, are popular throughout Indonesia. View at Picasa Bicycle taxis called "becaks", like these outside our hotel, are popular throughout Indonesia.12-Aug-2011 12:47

The highlight – and the reason most people bother to visit – was the nearby ancient temple complexes of Borobudur and Prambanan. We booked a “sunrise” tour to visit both sites, and were picked well before dawn in a stylish VW bus in order to beat the crowds and the heat, while enjoying a spectacular sunrise from the top of Borobudur.

Our ride for the day to visit Borobudor and Prambanan. View at Picasa Our ride for the day to visit Borobudor and Prambanan.10-Aug-2011 09:58

This Buddhist temple was built more than a thousand years ago, before the spread of Islam. The elaborate structure consists of thousands of carved statues and panels, situated around a three-level tiered temple. Amazingly, it was constructed entirely out of volcanic andesite stones, with no mortar used to join them together.

The multiple levels of Borobudor take pilgrims on a spiritual journey through the Buddha's life and teachings. View at Picasa The multiple levels of Borobudor take pilgrims on a spiritual journey through the Buddha's life and teachings.10-Aug-2011 08:19

The temple was buried by volcanic eruptions and forgotten by the world until the 1800s, when Sir Thomas Raffles – the British Governor of Java – rediscovered the site.

Sunrise over the circular stupas at the top of Borobudor. View at Picasa Sunrise over the circular stupas at the top of Borobudor.10-Aug-2011 07:34

Since then, it’s been fully unearthed and restored. It’s still considered a holy Buddhist site, which attracts devoted pilgrims every year. In addition to the pilgrims, tourists flock here by the busload; Borobudor is the single most visited tourist attraction in Indonesia.

A giant jigsaw puzzle. The stones that make up Borobudor's detailed reliefs fit together perfectly - no mortar was used. View at Picasa A giant jigsaw puzzle. The stones that make up Borobudor's detailed reliefs fit together perfectly - no mortar was used.10-Aug-2011 07:46

After watching the glorious sunrise and exploring the intricate details of this ancient wonder, we headed over to another temple complex. This time, the nearby Hindu site of Prambanan.

This enormous compound comprises hundreds of temples honoring the Hindu divinities, along with intricately carved panels depicting stories from the epic Ramayana.

Some of the Hindu temples at Prambanan. View at Picasa Some of the Hindu temples at Prambanan.10-Aug-2011 12:22

Sadly, Prambanan has not withstood Indonesia’s regular earthquakes as Borobudor. Many of the temples remain off access to the public, and significant restoration work continues on these World Heritage structures.

Years of neglect, earthquakes, and volcanic ash have left Prambanan worse for the year. View at Picasa Years of neglect, earthquakes, and volcanic ash have left Prambanan worse for the year.10-Aug-2011 12:45

On our way to the temples, we passed the mighty Mount Merapi. This large volcano, which literally means fire mountain in Indonesian, is the most active in Indonesia. Over the years, it’s been responsible for a lot of damage and destruction. It most recently erupted in December, 2010, and was responsible for hundreds of deaths and the displacement of hundreds of thousands of people from nearby Yogjakarta. As we passed this menacing volcano looked fairly tranquil, letting out only a steady stream of smoke from its crater.

Sunrise over Mount Merapi as seen from Borobudor. Indonesia's most active volcano. View at Picasa Sunrise over Mount Merapi as seen from Borobudor. Indonesia's most active volcano.10-Aug-2011 07:11

Yogja is not only a city, it is also part of a regional kingdom, complete with a sultan and palace complex. After fighting off the becak (bicycle rickshaw) drivers and making our way on foot to the palace, we bought a ticket to visit the kraton (palace). Or, at least, we thought we were buying a ticket for the palace. We were a little confused as to why the entry price didn’t match the one we thought it would be. After an all-too-quick guided tour through some beat up old buildings (surely a sultan wouldn’t live here?), past a few scary-looking mannequins, and being shown a few photos, the guide shook us down for a tip and tried to get us to follow a “friend” to buy some batiks (traditional printed fabrics).

Fit for a sultan? The supposed "throne room" in the fake palace. View at Picasa Fit for a sultan? The supposed "throne room" in the fake palace.11-Aug-2011 13:04

We then found out we had got snookered into the “fake” palace, with the real one just around the corner. We ended up buying tickets for the real palace, but with it already being late in the day, only had a short time to look around.

Inside the real palace. View at Picasa Inside the real palace.11-Aug-2011 13:27

In addition to the modern day palace (fake and real), it’s also possible to visit the Taman Sari Water Castle. This series of underground canals, pools, and small buildings was used by previous sultans. Here, they would travel from the main palace complex using boats through the secret underground canals.

An entrance to the secret underground canals (now drained). View at Picasa An entrance to the secret underground canals (now drained).11-Aug-2011 14:11

Using special viewing towers, the sultan would observe women bathing in the pools and invite them in to his inner pool. You can guess what would happen there.

A view from one of the towers previous sultans would use to select one of their bathing beauties. View at Picasa A view from one of the towers previous sultans would use to select one of their bathing beauties.11-Aug-2011 14:43

Since the sultans abandoned this sinful complex, squatters have moved in and a small village covers the historical site. A friendly local showed us around. Unfortunately, plans are in place to evacuate these villagers to restore the complex and offer more tourist facilities.

Having exhausted the sights around Yogjakarta after a few, we headed to the train station and bought a ticket to Surabaya, ready to explore a few more of Java’s attractions.

We were a bit sad to leave Malaysia, after enjoying some of its beautiful islands, jungle and wildlife. But we were excited to enter a new country, our 17th of this trip – Indonesia.

After landing in Jakarta, we knew it would be a different story than Malaysia. We’re cautious everywhere we go, but with Southeast Asia, I was even more on-guard. Scams are everywhere and locals are desperately trying to make as much money as they can off of us tourists. I’m all for earning an honest wage. But some people here are less than honest.

Arriving at Jakarta’s airport following a quick flight from Singapore. View at Picasa Arriving at Jakarta’s airport following a quick flight from Singapore.06-Aug-2011 15:27

After dropping our bags at the hotel, we decided to see a bit of Indonesia’s capital city, even though most backpackers skip it altogether. We headed to the Monas Tower overlooking the city.

Jakarta’s Monas National Monument. View at Picasa Jakarta’s Monas National Monument.07-Aug-2011 10:10

We knew to take only Bluebird taxis, as they are the only official metered taxis. We arrived early and got some photos of it from below. After just a few minutes near some cool statues near the base of the tower, we had a first! A man approached Erik and asked for a photo. Erik, of course, assumed he wanted him to take a photo of the man and his family. But, he just wanted a photo with Erik! Our first you’re a Westerner and I want a photo with you moment. It was too funny and I thought it was rather sweet.

One of Erik’s fans posing for a photo together. View at Picasa One of Erik’s fans posing for a photo together.07-Aug-2011 10:30

We wanted to head to the top for a good look above the city. But, the catch was there’s only one small (and I mean small) elevator that takes just 6-10 people up at a time. We waited for over one hour in the Jakarta heat to get up to the top.

Waiting for the only small elevator to ascend Monas. View at Picasa Waiting for the only small elevator to ascend Monas.07-Aug-2011 11:25

The view was nice and we snapped a few photos. It actually gave us a great view of the Istaqlal Mosque we were about to visit next.

The huge Istaqlal Mosque as seen from the top of Monas. View at Picasa The huge Istaqlal Mosque as seen from the top of Monas.07-Aug-2011 11:41

As I was taking in the scenery, I noticed a woman taking candid photos of me with her cell phone. I can understand people wanting a photo, but the least you can do is ask. I kept hiding behind columns or the brochure I’d been carrying so as to block her paparazzi view.

The observation deck at the top of Monas. View at Picasa The observation deck at the top of Monas.07-Aug-2011 11:53

After the tower, we were rather sweaty and exhausted. We made our way to the train station to buy our tickets for the trip to Yogjakarta in a couple of days. With that settled, we wanted to make our way to the mosque. So begins another frustrating Indonesia moment. As we step out of the train station, actually – before, we’re accosted by men yelling “Taxi – where you go?” I had a bad feeling about this. Train stations are notorious for new travelers strange to town to be scammed by a local who can tell they’re clueless. So, as we walk out, and going against our better judgment to wait for a Bluebird taxi, we go with a guy who takes us to a blue taxi. Not a Bluebird taxi. We told him we wanted to go to the big mosque and he holds up three fingers which Erik took to mean 3,000rupiah (less than 50c). The mosque was close, but the walk would have been a bit hairy through a few sketchy blocks and some wide busy intersections. So, against our better judgement, we got in. As we’re on the way there, I told Erik “something’s not right here.” Erik said “he’s doing us a favor…” After our three minute cab ride, we arrive at the mosque. What would have cost us 8,000r in a metered taxi, our driver was demanding 30,000r! Absurd. Definitely a scam. I began getting heated and saying “no,” which I knew he could understand. Erik knew we’d been duped and rather than make a scene in front of a mosque, we paid. It was only $3.50, but should have been less than 50c. But it wasn’t about the money – it was the principal at that point. This was a lightbulb moment for me. I knew I had to be very aware and cautious at all times in Indonesia. Never let your guard down.

We entered the mosque foyer. The mosque was enormous. It’s the largest mosque in Southeast Asia and can hold over 120,000 people during the high holy days! We were given robes to wear to enter the mosque, as a gesture of respect to the grounds. This mosque had become more famous in Indonesia after Barack and Michelle Obama had visited there less than a year prior on their visit to Jakarta.

The grand domed prayer hall inside the enormous Istaqlal Mosque. View at Picasa The grand domed prayer hall inside the enormous Istaqlal Mosque.07-Aug-2011 12:48

The mosque was quite modern and grey, quite different than we’d imagined. But, the expanse of the space was very moving and overwhelming. We thanked our guide for our complimentary tour and made sure to make a donation on our way out.

The large dome as seen from the inside. View at Picasa The large dome as seen from the inside.07-Aug-2011 12:47

Before we’d arrived in Jakarta, I’d been planning to meet up with an old schoolmate of mine from high school. My friend Cris, who I’d played high school volleyball with, was now living in Jakarta. Thanks to Facebook, we’d been in touch and were planning a visit while we were in town. Cris had generously offered to host us and we finally spoke on the phone! After setting up the details of meeting up, Cris reminded us to always take Bkuebird taxis, and we told her we’d already found that out the hard way…

As we were turning in our keys, we were sad that we hadn’t found one place while we were in Jakarta. We knew Barack Obama had gone to primary school in the area we were staying in, Menteng, during the four years he spent growing up in the city. The day before, we had walked around for blocks searching for SD Besuki Menteng school. We wanted to see it so badly. Just as we were handing in the keys at checkout at the hotel, Erik saw on a Google map online that his school was just two blocks away!

The elementary school Barack Obama attended in Menteng, Jakarta. View at Picasa The elementary school Barack Obama attended in Menteng, Jakarta.07-Aug-2011 14:47

The hotel manager at the desk said, “yes, of course, it’s very close just two blocks away.” We left our bags in the lobby and ran to see Obama’s old school. As we got closer, we could see the small statue of little Obama as a boy holding a butterfly.

A statue stands in the school’s courtyard, commemorating their famous student, “Barry.” View at Picasa A statue stands in the school’s courtyard, commemorating their famous student, “Barry.”07-Aug-2011 14:51

There was a plaque outside in English proudly stating that the 44th President of the United States of America had attended the school in Menteng as a boy. Tears came to my eyes. It was just a really special moment at a small school on a side street in Jakarta. No other tourists. Just us. Two Americans on the other side of the world. Proud to be standing in a place where our president grew up.

Plaque at the school’s front gates. View at Picasa Plaque at the school’s front gates.07-Aug-2011 14:46

We met up with Cris and her husband, Anker, and their adorable daughter, Isabela. It was so wonderful to see her after more than 15 years! She looked virtually the same after all these years and we just laughed over old school stories. It’s sad that we had lost touch over time, but thanks to Facebook (what would we do without it???), we’d reconnected just in time to meet up on the other side of the planet.

Cris and Heather. View at Picasa Cris and Heather.07-Aug-2011 19:53

Cris and her family welcomed us into their home, we went for a swim with Isabela in their pool (she loved Erik – all girls seem to!) and they grilled up a delicious barbecue of steaks, chicken and salads. It was such a wonderful day! We stayed up late laughing and talking – just like old times.

While Jakarta is by no means the best place to start a trip through Indonesia, we learned a few things and got to catch up with a wonderful old friend!

We left Malacca, Malaysia on my birthday – August 2nd – for the quick trip to the small city-state of Singapore, situated at the southern end of the Malay Peninsula.

We knew Singapore would be expensive. Very expensive. But since it was my big day, we decided to take a break from backpacking for a little bit and live it up in this modern and glamorous Southeast Asian metropolis.

You might have heard of some of Singapore’s bizarre strict laws. For example, eating on a subway train or not flushing a public toilet can result in a large fine. As we were having our bags inspected at Customs and Immigration I realized we had a few packs of chewing gum in a backpack. Chewing gum is forbidden in Singapore, and faces a fine of up to S$10,000 (about $8,000 USD). Luckily, the agents didn’t seem to notice and instead asked a few questions about a can of soda they mistook as a can of beer. Phew!

Overlooking Singapore’s Marina Bay and Central Business District (CBD). View at Picasa Overlooking Singapore’s Marina Bay and Central Business District (CBD).05-Aug-2011 14:37

We checked into the nice modern Ibis Hotel near Bugis Street, where the receptionist – upon checking my passport – noticed it was my birthday and upgraded us to a room on the top floor with awesome views over the city skyline.

Our room on the top floor of Singapore’s Ibis on Bencoolen. View at Picasa Our room on the top floor of Singapore’s Ibis on Bencoolen.02-Aug-2011 15:44

That night, we headed to the 71st floor of the Swissotel, to enjoy a few drinks soaking in more of the cityscape at New Asia Bar.

Drinks with a view at the New Asia SkyBar on the 71st floor of the Swissotel. View at Picasa Drinks with a view at the New Asia SkyBar on the 71st floor of the Swissotel.02-Aug-2011 20:33

Afterwards, we headed to the historic Boat Quay for dinner by the Singapore River.

At night, the Singapore River comes to life with stylish bars and restaurants. View at Picasa At night, the Singapore River comes to life with stylish bars and restaurants.04-Aug-2011 23:44

The next day, we took some time to explore some of Singapore’s diverse neighborhoods. We started in nearby Little India, where we grabbed a few Indian snacks, browsed the colorful crafts, and walked through a big food market.

A hawker centre (food court) in Little India. Hawker centre’s are the cheapest place to eat in the city and often have fresh, fantastic food. View at Picasa A hawker centre (food court) in Little India. Hawker centre’s are the cheapest place to eat in the city and often have fresh, fantastic food.03-Aug-2011 13:30

Next, we stopped by the Mustafa Centre shopping complex. This huge department store carries everything – and I mean everything – you could ever possibly need to buy. More than 75,000 products are sold here, and it’s open 24-hours a day. In addition, they run their own on-site hotel, travel agency, and foreign-exchange office.

Inside Mustafa Centre. It’s easy to get lost in here! View at Picasa Inside Mustafa Centre. It’s easy to get lost in here!03-Aug-2011 14:30

We were really impressed by the food market, which features specialty imported foods from around the world. It was unlike anything we’ve ever seen before!

An entire row of hot sauces from around the world at Mustafa Centre. View at Picasa An entire row of hot sauces from around the world at Mustafa Centre.03-Aug-2011 14:14

We continued on to the Orchard Road district, to check out some of the other shopping malls Singapore is famous for. The malls were large, glitzy, and full of all the same sorts of stores you can find anywhere else in the world. It was interesting, but not exactly our cup of tea.

Shopping, shopping, and more shopping on Orchard Road. View at Picasa Shopping, shopping, and more shopping on Orchard Road.03-Aug-2011 17:56

Singapore is supposed to have one of the best zoo’s in the world, and even though we normally avoid these sorts of attractions, we decided to check out the unique “Night Safari” they run. This allows visitors to tour part of the park at night, checking out animals in dimly lit natural enclosures.

A tram leads visitors through the Singapore Zoo’s Night Safari. View at Picasa A tram leads visitors through the Singapore Zoo’s Night Safari.03-Aug-2011 20:05

While the weather wasn’t 100% cooperative (it rained part of the time), we still had a great time on the Night Safari, and can understand why this zoo is one of the top in the world.

A Malay Tiger at the Singapore Zoo. Despite the nickname “Lion City” no lions have ever been found in Singapore. View at Picasa A Malay Tiger at the Singapore Zoo. Despite the nickname “Lion City” no lions have ever been found in Singapore.03-Aug-2011 21:54

One of the items on every visitor’s checklist is a trip to the Long Bar at Raffles Hotel, where the “Singapore Sling” cocktail was born. We left wondering what the fuss is all about – the drinks were poured from a pre-mixed carafe, were overly sweet, and rang in at S$26 each (US $20 each).

Long Bar at the Raffles Hotel. Home of the original Singapore Sling. View at Picasa Long Bar at the Raffles Hotel. Home of the original Singapore Sling.04-Aug-2011 19:04

Heather noticed an ad for a production of the musical “Into the Woods” playing at Singapore’s famous Esplanade theatre. The theatre itself is in a large, domed building covered with spiky points. Since it looks like the popular, stinky fruit, locals have nicknamed it “The Big Durian.”

Singapore’s Esplanade Theatres on the Bay – said to resemble the shape of a durian fruit. View at Picasa Singapore’s Esplanade Theatres on the Bay – said to resemble the shape of a durian fruit.05-Aug-2011 17:24

Believe it or not, the show was excellent. Who would have thought – Broadway in Southeast Asia? Though, it was a little funny listening to some of the actors slightly-out-of-place Singlish accents.

A poster for Stephen Sondheim’s Into the Woods. View at Picasa A poster for Stephen Sondheim’s Into the Woods.04-Aug-2011 19:36

For our last full day in Singapore, we started at the Singapore Flyer, which is the largest Ferris – or more properly Giant Observation – Wheel in the world.

The Singapore Flyer is the largest Giant Observation Wheel (GOW) in the world. View at Picasa The Singapore Flyer is the largest Giant Observation Wheel (GOW) in the world.05-Aug-2011 13:45

The wheel rises 42 stories and takes capsules holding 28 passengers on a full rotation in approximately 40 minutes. The weather was perfect and the views were stunning.

The view from the top. View at Picasa The view from the top.05-Aug-2011 14:34

Next, we walked to the new Sands Casino to marvel at the SkyPark connecting and topping the roofs of its three towers. It’s a little odd-looking, but carries an infinity swimming pool, bars, and restaurants.

The Marina Bay Sands Casino and Hotel with its distinctive SkyPark connecting the three towers. View at Picasa The Marina Bay Sands Casino and Hotel with its distinctive SkyPark connecting the three towers.05-Aug-2011 17:32

Finally, we joined a walking tour through Singapore’s old Chinatown, learning about this clean and polished city’s seamy underside. Here, we walked past some of the older areas of the city, where opium dens, brothels, and gambling halls once supported a younger and rougher city which was packed full of immigrant workers. It was very eye-opening to uncover some of the hidden history of this city which seems so prim, proper, and obedient.

Singapore’s old Chinatown. View at Picasa Singapore’s old Chinatown.05-Aug-2011 19:31

After four days living the good life in the Lion City, we were ready to move on to our next destination – the volcanic string of islands known as Indonesia.

Our last stop in Malaysia before heading south to Singapore was the old colonial city of Malacca (or as it is know these days, Melaka). Like Penang, this city was a strategic port for Malaysia’s colonial powers, first for the Dutch and later for the British.

The meandering Melaka River snakes through the city and splits off into a number of canals. This extensive network of waterways was an important feature to the old city, with most of the historic buildings located along it. Our hostel was conveniently located on the river, offering a tranquil view from its balcony and easy access to the riverside walkway.

Our Guest House, overlooking the Melaka River. View at Picasa Our Guest House, overlooking the Melaka River.01-Aug-2011 16:51

The modern day population of Malacca is predominantly Chinese, and the city is renowned for its cuisine. It is probably most famous for its Hainese chicken rice balls – small chicken meatballs about the size of a ping pong. We tried a plate of them at one of the popular establishments on Jonkers Street the first night, I quite liked the chicken, but Erik was less than impressed.

Malacca’s famous chicken rice balls. View at Picasa Malacca’s famous chicken rice balls.31-Jul-2011 20:09

After dinner, we headed to the Night Market. Here we found some tasty freshly fried potato chips they called “pagoda potatoes” that had just been carved from raw potatoes using this curly-Q type device. The potato chips come on a stick warm and you can ask for a variety of toppings (cheese, chili, salt, etc.). Why don’t they have these on the streets of New York? An idea for Erik and his ever-growing list of ideas of street-carts we should run when we get back to New York.

“Pagoda potatoes” – fried potato’s on a stick. Brilliant! View at Picasa “Pagoda potatoes” – fried potato’s on a stick. Brilliant!31-Jul-2011 20:38

After the blocks of food stalls, souvenirs and craft items, we stumbled upon what we took to be a huge karaoke competition, as an older gentleman belted out a familiar local tune in front of a huge audience.

Some sort of karaoke competition was taking place under the lit-up stage at center. View at Picasa Some sort of karaoke competition was taking place under the lit-up stage at center.31-Jul-2011 21:58

We had been warned against taking one of the river boat tours up the Melaka River, but decided to give it a shot anyway. After boarding the boat, we soon realized the tour was entirely in Chinese. The tour guide tried to offer a few comments in English, but otherwise we were left trying to figure out what the rest of the boat was pointing at or laughing about. We did manage to spot some small turtles and a few lizards swimming in the water and lounging in the trees and on land. To make matters worse, the boat unexpectedly terminated a couple miles upstream instead of making a round trip as we had been told.

A tour boat passing under one of many bridges crossing the river. View at Picasa A tour boat passing under one of many bridges crossing the river.01-Aug-2011 16:52

Alas, the best thing we did in Malacca was simply walk around. We found an old Lonely Planet with a suggested walking tour, and spent the better part of a day roaming the city.

Dutch Square and Christ Church showcase Malacca’s colonial past. View at Picasa Dutch Square and Christ Church showcase Malacca’s colonial past.01-Aug-2011 14:08

Among the highlights were the old shopkeepers houses.

A traditional wooden house in top condition. View at Picasa A traditional wooden house in top condition.01-Aug-2011 15:07

Along with the colorful temples, mosques, and churches.

A Chinese temple on Temple Street, where temples, churches and mosques can all be found within a few feet of each other. For this reason, it’s also known as Harmony Street. View at Picasa A Chinese temple on Temple Street, where temples, churches and mosques can all be found within a few feet of each other. For this reason, it’s also known as Harmony Street.01-Aug-2011 15:12

And, of course, the ruins of the old fort that once secured Malacca’s place as an major Asian trading port.

The Porta de Santiago – a gate to the old A Famosa Portuguese Fort (now in ruins). View at Picasa The Porta de Santiago – a gate to the old A Famosa Portuguese Fort (now in ruins).01-Aug-2011 17:30

Saying goodbye to Malaysia, we were excited to see what another large cosmopolitan city had in store for us – next stop Singapore!